Tisha B'Av

Tonight ended the fast of the ninth of Av (Tisha B'Av), the saddest day on the Jewish calendar. The ninth of Av commemorates the destruction of both the first and second Temples, and many other sad events in Jewish history that occurred on that  day, such as the expulsion from Spain in 1492. While it is commemorated by fasting (not such an easy thing to do in Israel during the summer), it is also an excellent time to study and think about Jewish history, especially that of Jerusalem.

Last night, I attended a service and reading of Aycha (Lamentations) at the part of the Western Wall known as Robinson's Arch. Separated from the rest of the Western Wall (also known in Hebrew as the Kotel), which has a large men's area and a considerably smaller women's area, the section near Robinson's Arch is where groups of men and women can pray together. While I didn't completely hear or understand much of the talk that was given in Hebrew, due to not only my still somewhat limited Hebrew and also to the poor sound system and acoustics, it was still a moving and unique experience. For right there in front of us was the last remaining wall of the Temple that was destroyed by the Romans in 70 CE. And the Jews are back in Israel, able to celebrate the joyous festivals as well as commemorate the fast days as well. The Old City of Jerusalem had been out of Israeli hands from 1948 until it was recaptured in the Six Day War in 1967, and I still remember what an awesome feeling it was to be a Jew anywhere in the world at that time.  

I strongly considered not fasting - I generally do not fast on Tisha B'Av at home, mostly because mourning the destruction of the Temples seems a not very fruitful (this time, really no pun intended) exercise. While the date marks unspeakable tragedy, so do so many dates in history that to fast on them all would cheapen the act of fasting. I fast on Yom Kippur, the Day of Atonement, of course, because that is part of the soul-searching that one does on that day, but somehow Tisha B'Av, being a fast of mourning rather than introspection, just didn't strike me as all that important. Here, however, where the destruction took place, I felt that fasting seemed more natural. And it was. I attended excellent study sessions and the afternoon service at the Conservative Yeshiva, where I have been taking classes, and they were all excellent and enlightening.

After mourning and fasting comes a return to normal life, so I ate dinner after sundown (around 8:10 pm) and return to regular classes tomorrow. Wishing everyone a good week!

At the Western Wall (Kotel HaMaaravi), Saturday night, June 28, 2012

 Finally, some pictures from Israel. These were taken early last Tuesday morning on a walk from Yemin Moshe to the Old City by way of the valley of Ben-Hinom (also called Gehinom or Gehenna, which has become a synonym for hell). We crossed the valley, ascended a steep path to the Zion Gate, and entered the Western Wall area called Robinson's Arch, where egalitarian services can be held. Thanks to our wonderful teacher (and tour guide!) Esther!

 The cutest pilgrim on our walk!

Wednesday evening, a quarter to 11

After almost two weeks down of the first of two three-week sessions at the Conservative Yeshiva in Jerusalem, I can't say that I am a Talmud scholar. I do think, however, that daily study has made me a slightly sharper navigator in the byways of Talmud. I have also found that just as one cannot expect to walk briskly in the midday Jerusalem summer heat and expect to survive for long, one cannot rush headlong through a Talmudic passage and expect to really understand it.

I realized today that although I have been here for almost a month, I have done nothing "touristy" (if you exclude going to the Western Wall, which I did once) and that I have not taken a single photo. I hope to do at least some sight-seeing when Phyllis gets here at the end of the month, and I must start taking pictures (my Dad would certainly have wanted me to!)

Hope the summer is offering at least a bit of relaxation (and more cool temperatures than we're getting here).

And there was evening, and there was morning, a fifth day

I have finished one week of classes at the Conservative Yeshiva, and it has been an excellent start. Studying Talmud every weekday morning is something that I have never done, and while I cannot (and might never be able to truly) say that I am proficient at it, I know that I will improve. I'm studying with an interesting group of Jewish students from around the world, and the teacher is a young, really bright guy originally from Chicago who has a formidable knowledge of Talmud and its nearly infinite byways and interconnections. My Tanakh (Hebrew Bible) classes are also fascinating and the teachers are enthusiastic and vastly knowledgeable. So far, so good!

Although it is only Thursday, I wish everyone in advance a Shabbat Shalom, a restful sabbath, and a chill weekend. Hoping all of my Maryland friends have your power back on!